I gave Zoe the phrase graffiti academia to encompass the expressiveness of her style. I see her Ivy League pedigree and deep appreciation for literature reflected in the academic tone of her favorite pieces—button downs, tweed blazers with elbow patches, corduroy pants—but there is a distinct underground, youthful punkiness underlying her fashion. She has always enjoyed enamel and lucite elements—jewelry and pins—distressed denim, and moody, loud colors like fuchsia and magenta. Zoe’s style preferences make me think of a professor’s wool coat being thrown into a laundry cycle with a denim jacket that had been worn to a concert and the ensuing mashup of seriousness and irreverence.

Many of her tee shirts and denim items are more at home in the True Summer palette. During her analysis, I found that she favored coolness in her colors above all, but there was no doubt that she looked more alive and natural in the high intensity of the Winter colors over the desaturated Summer ones. I suggested that she look for tops in similar shades to her periwinkle and lavender favorites—lobelia, violet, and cobalt provide better definition to her face. I advised Zoe to keep wearing her True Winter lipsticks—she already had several—and add those flattering colors into her wardrobe elsewhere. Lucite earrings are a great place to start, as are pins that can be added to the lapel of a jacket and can have the same face-brightening effect.

For her body type, I recommended narrow and cropped shapes. Zoe does not like necklines or tops that feel too revealing—so a variety of jackets and toppers is a must; she should also look for tops with shallow scoop, boat, and crew necklines. Other great top silhouettes are turtlenecks and high-necked blouses inspired by Victorian silhouettes. A silky tie-neck blouse may be layered with a sweater vest for a casual look, or worn in important meetings for a unique yet professional polish.

As far as makeup goes, Zoe bounces between wearing “safe” makeup (a bold lip with a naked eye, which is perfect for True Winter already) and more experimental looks with colorful eyeshadow. There are many fun True Winter shades she can choose to use on her eyes, but I advised her that a sharp graphic liner is more successful for Winters compared to a smoky haze. I suggested cobalt, yellow, and hot pink shades for graphic liner looks, which can be paired with a sheer cherry balm on the lips for a cohesive, artistic look.

Finally, Zoe has a preexisting love for chartreuse—a polarizing, murkier version of lime green that is more easily found in the True and Dark Autumn palettes than her True Winter one. Chartreuse is a funky color, with a strange affinity for outside-of-palette shades like magenta and shocking pink, which are found in Zoe’s best colors. I told her to feel free to keep using her existing favorite chartreuse items, but to keep in mind they are unlikely to meld well with the full True Winter palette. For new purchases in the same vein, I suggested Zoe explore acid yellow, a True Winter shade that pops among her deep cool tones, without clashing or making her skin look washed-out.